Prop Rules
This information is about how the many different kinds of items in the game are represented. Most of these guidelines only matter when you want to bring your own props into the game. Anything already in the game should already meet these guidelines.
Props - Creating and Using
Real world props are used to represent in game items. These can be made of many different materials, too much to give a definitive allowed and banned list here. Weapons in particular have very strict requirements for safety reasons. For props not related to combat a general guideline is that objects made out of historically appropriate materials are likely to be ok (though for safety reasons glass should generally only be used for encampment items - things that won't move around a lot or be near combat). For many props what materials are visible is more important than what the prop is made out of. It's worth noting specifically that duct tape which is a common feature of many other larps is not ever allowed to be visible at Kingdoms of Novitas.
A player's personal property such as the tunic you wear in game cannot be stolen in-game. However if you were to use that same tunic to represent a magic item with the ornamenting skill it would be given an identification number, so that players with identify magic can ID it. Props that have ID numbers, referred to as "numbered items" can be stolen during the game. Because you still own the tunic out-of-game the player who steals the tunic from you should contact you after the game is done to work out what will happen with the tunic. You can choose to sell them the tunic for in-game coin, real world money, or you can have them return the tunic to you, but you will not be allowed to use it any longer for your character - in-game it was stolen after all.
All non-personal treasure (the stuff that doesn't belong to a specific player) is the property of Kingdoms of Novitas. As such it can be stolen during the game.
At any time game masters can remove props from play (typically for story reasons), rules staff members can remove props from play (typically for safety reasons or to deal with rules issues), and props and atmosphere staff can remove props from play (typically for aesthetic reasons).
Players are responsible for keeping, between games, any props they acquire during the game. Should a prop become too damaged for play it should be removed from the game permanently. Retired props provided by the game should be returned to logistics so they can repair it to someday be introduced as a brand new different item.
A player can turn a prop into an item worth coin at any time by bring both the prop and the coin it will be worth to logistics. There a staff member will assign the prop an item number and from that point on, the prop will be an item that can be traded or looted, with an associated coin value. Some items are listed in the tinkering zero list that can't be given value.
Coins and Currency
Coin is the basic unit of currency in the Kingdoms of Novitas. One copper piece is commonly referred to as one coin. A silver piece is worth ten coin. There are also "exotic" coins also known in-game as "slave tokens". These larger pieces of metal have symbols pressed into them and are notably heavier than a standard coin. Each is worth one hundred coin. There are no gold coins, and referring to how much gold something is worth is never appropriate.
Other alternate valuables exist such as the sea shells used by piscenes, or gems. The estimate value skill allows players to identify the coin value of any unusual item their character comes across, collectively referred to as "valuable items" in this wiki. There is no regulation of trading between two characters, a character can offer whatever price they deem appropriate for a trade and a seller can accept that offer or not as they wish.
Characters are not allowed to create counterfeit coins. Suspension of disbelief is an important part of larping and there would be no reasonable way for players to figure out what is fake and what is real.
Clothing Props
Few things can ruin the atmosphere of the game more than players with bad costumes, usually referred to as “garb”.
Sneakers, T-shirts, or jarringly modern clothes, such as camouflage fatigues, can completely destroy the suspension of disbelief the game tries to create.
KoN is a fantasy game, and not set in a specific historical period so the variety of acceptable garb is wide. Players portraying non-human characters are encouraged to flavor their garb with fantasy elements.
Garb guidelines:
- The real world time period Novitas samples for historical garb ends roughly around 1500 AD.
- Civen characters should draw influence from the Roman Empire between 27 BCE – 610 CE.
- Vleanoan and Evenandran characters should draw influence from medieval western Europe between 1066 – 1500
- Great Forest and Dellin Tribelands characters should draw influence from central and northern Europe between the prehistoric era – 106 CE
- Free Lands characters wear anything found in any other kingdom.
- Gershen characters draw influence from China between 1500 BCE – 1644 CE or Japan between 250 BCE – 186 CE
- Terran characters should draw influence between 610 CE – 1066 CE the "dark ages" of European history.
- This guide covers the look for characters from Vargainen.
Garb should NEVER contain:
- Fluorescent or day-glow colors
- Modern military clothing in cut or pattern
- Camouflage patterns in any form
- Printed bandannas
- Sneakers in any form or color
- Modern hats
- Visible zippers (Zippers on the insides of boots are acceptable if not obvious)
- Cargo pockets on pants
- Visible white socks
- Exposed modern webbing or straps
- Clothing of obviously modern cut or materials
- Nylon or zippered backpacks or satchels
- Clearly mundane prints or logos
Make-up and Costuming
Creatures in Novitas are designed to be as distinctive as can be practically done. To that end certain costuming has reserved use. Many creatures are represented by masks (and sometimes specific wardrobe items), this means that there are restrictions on what masks player characters can wear in game to avoid creating confusion. If you wish to use a mask be sure to talk to the props and atmosphere marshal or their second.
Other creatures are represented by paint applied by air brush, or sometimes direct make up application. Care is taken during cold weather months to use paint as minimally as possible so that players don't have to wash it off and then go out into the cold with a wet face.
Restricted and Reserved Items
We want to allow players as much freedom as possible to bring mundane, basic items with them into the game. However there are some costuming and general items that have special restrictions on them. Player characters should always check with the props marshal before bringing any crown or mask into the game (due to COVID we should specify we're referring to decorative masks not medical face masks). Because we use these things to represent different kinds of monsters its important we maintain that if players see a character with a mask or a crown on they can easily distinguish if you are a PC who is wearing garb, or a monster who is defined by these items.
There are also a few items that are allowed but need to follow guidelines. At nighttime, characters can use glowsticks for light. In game people tend to call these "glow worms" so that they are a little more flavorful. Lanterns (during game hours) need props marshal approval for brightness and appearance.
Finally some items have rules attached to them and can only be brought into game if crafted by a craftsperson. Typically these are tinkering items. These include flash lights and locks and keys.
Weapons Prop Requirements
Special Weapons
In addition to a weapon needing to meet standards for safety the appearance of the weapon indicates certain information. The following colors are reserved for (and required by) weapons made of special materials:
- Elven steel weapons or other items must be covered with black paint then decorated with natural looking thin white/silver veins coursing through it.
- Goblin iron (poison) weapons must be covered with green paint.
- Blightsteel (blight) weapons don't have a specific paint job at this time, and as such won't be seen at game until they do.
- Razorleaf (nature) weapons must have the blade or any striking surface covered with red paint.
- Primal weapons (or other custom specialty items) must be covered with red paint then decorated with natural looking thin black veins coursing through it.
- Weapons made of more than one exceptional material must conform to all color requirements, usually this is done by coloring each cutting edge of a sword as a different material.
While not a special materials these items deserves note.
- A master's blade must have an above average looking prop to represent it.
- Weapons with spells in them must be covered with blue paint to indicate they are magical.
Mundane Melee Weapons
These are the requirements to bring a melee weapon prop into the game.
All striking surfaces should have a minimum of 5/8 inch (1.59cm) of closed-cell foam.
All non-handle surfaces of a weapon should have a minimum of 3/8 inch (.96cm) of closed-cell foam.
Weaponsmithing Rank Required to create | 1 Rank per 4 Craft Points used |
---|---|
Coin Cost to Create: | 10 per Craft Point used |
Lootable: | Yes |
Brief Description: | A weapon for personal combat |
All melee weapon props must have a rigid core. Cores of wood or metal are forbidden. Acceptable core materials include but are not limited to: plastic, PVC, fiberglass, and carbon fiber. The core of the weapons should be securely held within the padding by glue, tape, or some other adhesive. Padding that slides or twists on the weapons core will be rejected. Cores that rattle or bounce within the padding will be rejected.
All pommels, crossguards, quillions, basket hilts, and other hilt fittings (not to include the grip iteself) must be composed of a flexible material.
The minimum length for any melee weapon is 16 inches (40.64cm). Non-handle pommels do not count towards the overall length measurement of a weapon.
Weapons that flex more than 45 degrees will be rejected.
No swung weapon may have more than 1/3 of its length unpadded for striking. The total unpadded section of a swung weapon may not be more than 30 unpadded inches (76.2cm) total.
Illegal weapons include but are not limited to: flails, punch daggers, slings, ball & chain weapons, and blowguns. Any weapon with a flexible component or which strikes primarily with a punching motion of the arm rather than a swinging motion is forbidden.
Mundane Missile Weapons
Props for weapons have certain requirements to be used in play. If a weapon is rejected for not being safe but is found still being used it may be summarily destroyed to ensure an unsafe weapon is not brought onto the field.
No weapons may have visible duct tape on them. Cloth covered weapons, a standard in some other larps is also not permitted.
Bows must have a draw weight of 35 pounds or less at 28 inches draw.
Crossbow draw weight should comply with this table.
Compound bows, PVC bows, takedown bows, brightly colored fiberglass bows, modern crossbows, or any other obviously modern archery equipment (including but not limited to peep sights, weights, camouflage or brightly colored shafting) are prohibited.
Brightly colored and/ or rubber fletching is allowed. Brightly colored plastic nocks will not disqualify arrows.
Each bow entering play must have at least 3 legal, arrows accompanying it.
A draw stop must be present on all arrows to ensure they are not drawn past 28 inches.
Arrow shafts may not be made of wood. The head of an arrow must be at least 2 inches in every dimension and must be a uniform, round shape. The head of an arrow or bolt must not be wobbly or move from side to side.
All arrows must contain a coin or similar small rigid disk perpendicular to the end of the shaft to prevent shaft punch-through. Commercially made rubber bird blunts also fulfill this requirement. Golf tube arrows are not permitted.
All arrows and bolts must have at least two full fletchings and a nock.
Mundane Thrown Weapons
Props for weapons have certain requirements to be used in play. If a weapon is rejected for not being safe but is found still being used it may be summarily destroyed to ensure an unsafe weapon is not brought onto the field.
No weapons may have visible duct tape on them. Cloth covered weapons, a standard in some other larps is also not permitted.
Thrown weapons must be completely padded including the hilt and rip. Each thrown weapon must look like a weapon, either knives, axes, or some other historical or fantasy weapon. No "throwing" rocks, disks, or paddles are allowed. A thrown weapon doesn’t have to have a core, but if it does have a core the core cannot go within 1 inch (2.54cm) of either end of the weapon. Cored throwing weapons may also be used in melee. Coreless throwing weapons may not be used in melee.
A standard throwing weapon is one greater than 6 and less than or equal to 30 inches. A standard sized throwing weapon must weigh no more than 6 ounces.
A javelin is a throwing weapon greater than 30 and less than or equal to 45 inches. A javelin must weigh no more than 12 ounces (340.2g).
A great javelin is a throwing weapon greater than 45 inches and less than or equal to 84 inches. A great javelin must weigh no more than 24 ounces (680.4g).
For all varieties of javelin both ends must be at least 2 inches (5.08) in diameter. Players are encouraged to incorporate some open-cell foam into the ends of their javelin designs.
Armor and Shield Prop Requirements
Armor Props
Players may wear armor which will benefit their character. There are requirements for armors that can be worn in the game, and all armor must be inspected by a safety marshal.
Armor must never impede normal movement in a fashion that endangers the wearer or prevents the player from following the rules of the game.
Armor must be attached or fitted on the body with proper integral closures such as buckles, laces, or snaps. Players are not allowed to attach armor to their body with tape, string, or similar temporary means.
Armor made of non-period materials (plastics, kydex, nylon, etc.) is not allowed. Non-period metals or alloys, such as aluminum, titanium, galvanized steel, stainless steel, nickel-plated steel, or anodized aluminum are allowed. No pleather, vinyl, or other synthetic leathers are acceptable.
Armor that consistently causes unreasonable damage to weapons will be removed from play.
Metal Armors
Players wearing plate armor are required to wear some form of padding or safety equipment that is hidden (such as modern safety equipment like elbow pads) or props approved (such as a padded gambeson or arming jack).
Metal plates must be at least .0478 inches thick. (18 gauge or thicker for ferrous metals, 16 gauge or thicker for non-ferrous metals). All edges of metal plates should be safely blunted or rolled.
Chain mail rings should be of no greater than one-half inch inside diameter.
Metal scales must be of at least .015 inch thickness (28 gauge or thicker for ferrous metals, 26 gauge or thicker for non-ferrous metals) and must overlap to provide armor value.
Metal brigandine is armor constructed of non-overlapping metal plates on a backing material. Brigandine plates must be within one-half inch of each other. Brigandine plates must have multiple points of attachment to the backing or to each other, or be held in individual pockets. Non-leather backing materials generally reduce the armor value of metal brigandine armor. These plates may be inside or outside the backing material.
Leather Armors
Leather brigandine is armor constructed of non-overlapping leather plates on a backing material. Non-leather backing materials do not contribute to the armor value of leather brigandine armor Leather brigandine plates must equal or exceed the value of the backing leather to be counted as armor.
Leather armor must be constructed of real leather of any thickness (unless otherwise specified). Studded leathers may be studded with metal spots, rings, washers or rivets. No bottle caps, brads or plastic may be used. Studded leather should have no more than 1 inch of un-studded leather on any part of it. The simple test used for this will be to try and place a US quarter dollar coin between studs. It should fit with a small bit of wiggle room, but no more. Leather scales must overlap to provide armor value. Light leather is leather of at least 6 ounce weight (3/32 inch). Heavy leather is leather of at least 12 ounce weight (3/16 inch). Leather is a natural material with natural variations that may result in irregular measurements. Players are free to request an average of multiple (up to five) measurements when their armor is measured for its armor point value. No layering of leather is permitted in any area being measured for armor point value.
Helmets
Leather helmets must have 3/4 head coverage. Metal helmets need a minimum of cap coverage. Regardless of material the helmet must meet the normal armor thickness requirements as mentioned previously in this page.
Shields Props
Shields are rigid defensive items held in one hand. They must be padded on all edges to prevent damage to weapons and minimize accidental damage to players. Bucklers are a sub-type of shield, and follow all prop rules for shields except where specifically mentioned otherwise.
All shields do not require a distinct, rigid core. Possible materials to craft them out of include but are not limited to steel, aluminum, plywood or rigid plastics. Plastic, foam and other modern materials must be covered with paint, cloth or leather. Exposed modern metals are acceptable. A shield may not have any exposed non-rounded metal hardware such as bolts or screws. The minimum padding on all edges of a shield is five-eighths of an inch of closed-cell foam. With rubber, vinyl, or similar flexible tubing or hose underneath the padding, the minimum padding may be three-eighths of an inch of closed cell foam.
Shields that exhibit more than minor (approximately 10 degrees of) flex are not allowed.
A rectangular shield's surface area is it's total height multiplied by its total width with no allowances made for irregularities, cut-outs, or curves. Any shield that is not round or a regular polyhedral shape will be considered rectangular.
A rectangular shield may not be more than 40 inches in any one dimension and may not have more than 720 square inches of surface area.
A round shield may not exceed a 36 inch diameter. Regular polyhedral shapes that fit inside a 36 diameter circle are also permitted.
The minimum dimension of a shield is 12 inches.
Curved shields are measured across the face of the shield (across the arc, not the chord).
All shields must be hand held.
Shields must be inspected just like weapons are inspected to make sure they meet these criteria. Just like two handed weapons, a shield will also be tested to make sure it is not too bendable or flexible.
Buckler Props
Bucklers are a sub-type of shield, and follow all prop rules for shields except where specifically mentioned otherwise.
All shields do not require a distinct, rigid core. Possible materials to craft them out of include but are not limited to steel, aluminum, plywood or rigid plastics. Plastic, foam and other modern materials must be covered with paint, cloth or leather. Exposed modern metals are acceptable. A shield may not have any exposed non-rounded metal hardware such as bolts or screws. The minimum padding on all edges of a shield is five-eighths of an inch of closed-cell foam. With rubber, vinyl, or similar flexible tubing or hose underneath the padding, the minimum padding may be three-eighths of an inch of closed cell foam.
Shields that exhibit more than minor (approximately 10 degrees of) flex are not allowed.
A rectangular shield's surface area is it's total height multiplied by its total width with no allowances made for irregularities, cut-outs, or curves. Any shield that is not round or a regular polyhedral shape will be considered rectangular.
A rectangular buckler may not exceed 24 inches in any one dimension and may not have more than 324 square inches of surface area.
A round buckler may not exceed a 24 inch diameter.
Bucklers may be hand-held, or strapped to the arm in which case they are referred to as a "passive buckler"